Use a cutting square or other non-slip straight edge
to guide the cutter. You can push as in normal stained
glass cutting, or you can draw the cutter toward you
as glaziers do. In either case, the pressure needs to
be even and the speed consistent.
In moving large scored sheets, avoid pulling by the
end. The score may run suddenly and not always along
the line. Instead, move the sheet with support on both
sides of the score. After the glass is scored, you have
choices about how to run the score:
One
easy way is to move the sheet so the scored line is
just inside the edge of the bench. The biggest piece
will be on the bench and the smaller piece in your hands.
Give a quick, sharp downward push with both hands on
the overhanging glass. Having the glass score inside
the bench edge gives you a place for the broken off
piece to rest, rather than pivoting toward the floor.
You
can slide the straight edge under the glass on one side
of the score, and press firmly, but not sharply on each
side of the score. The glass will break evenly along
the score line. This is a more gentle method of breaking
the glass. A variation on this is to place a couple
of match sticks or glass painting brushes at each end
of the score and apply the pressure.
If
the glass sheet is of a size that you can hold it in
both hands with the score between, you can draw it off
the bench, let it hang vertically, and bring your knee
up briskly to hit the score line, and it will break
easily. This is a showman's way of breaking glass sheets
when the score line is approximately centered on the
sheet.
Cut running pliers often do not work very well on long
straight scores on large sheets of glass. However, if
you try this, tapping along the score line before squeezing
the running pliers will help the score to run the way
you intend. (And defeat the purpose of getting a clean
break, as each time you tap the glass you get a ledge
on the side of the score line that you tapped). This
is sometimes the only way to achieve the break of the
score.
